These days it is rare to find a designer who is really hands on with their work, even rarer to find one who chooses the traditional method of handmade manufacturing instead of the commonly used mass production line.I introduce Chris McCallum of Vein Wear, a designer who reinforces that it’s all about quality over quantity. His designs in footwear are allowing men to throw away their four year old tattered shoes and embrace the return of a true craftsman. Let’s be honest, we haven not seen a talented cobbler using traditional methods in years. Chris is a breath of fresh air and it seems we are all craving some of Chris's designs and talent.
11 million pairs of shoes are produced each year worldwide, Vein Wear strive to keep styles original by only allowing 10-100 of each style to be made. Comfort, tick. Quality, tick. Originality all with the added bonus of being fashionable at the same time, double tick.
Chris McCallum is ticking all the right boxes. FTV123 caught up with the talented cobbler to get to know his reasoning behind his traditional craftsmanship, what inspires his savvy designs and to extend an invite to our next fashiontv party.
FTV123: Have you always wanted to be a designer?
Chris: Not always, but certainly for a long time. As kids and teens we all draw and "design" stuff. I used to draw a lot of fantasy cars when I was a kid. I also had a fascination with logos. But I didn't seriously consider it as a career until I was 19 or 20.
F: So Chris why shoes?
C: Shoes shoes shoes! Shoes are amazing. We are surrounded by so many shoes and yet we are for the most part completely ignorant about them. I find that interesting. How many people in our country could make a pair of our shoes? So few. They are fashion, but at the same time should be highly functional. They cop more pounding than any other item of clothing. And they affect the way you walk, the way you move, the health of you feet, knees and back. How much can you really learn about a t-shirt? I've been in footwear for nearly a decade and I feel like there is so much more to know.
F: Have you ever thought about designing shoes for women?
C: Yes, I have thought about it. I am involved a little bit in our women's range, Kitty Croquet. I will give it a go soon.
F: What styles from the Vein collection are you favourites?
C: I love the Pleated Desert Boots. The shape is great. The detailing is interesting but understated. They are incredibly comfortable. I just finished wearing the same pair for 500 days straight. And what new pair did I get after those? The same style in a beautiful brown suede.
C: Yes, I love colour also. Men's dress shoes have been defined too narrowly, I think. We are happy to wear brightly coloured shirts, ties, jeans, sneakers, thongs, etc. But when it comes to dress shoes it has to be black or brown? I don't think so. Have some fun with your shoes. Sure, have a black pair or two for the office. But that's not the only occasion you can wear dress shoes. Especially since we make them so comfortable.
F: Where/who do you get your design inspirations from?
C: I really don't know. And I don't like to think about inspiration. It's like thinking about it, kills it. I've never been one to theme a collection in order to wrangle up some inspiration.
F: Chris, can you please tell me the process of creating a new shoe style for Vein?
C: The process takes a long time. So we always have a lot of styles at various stages in the pipeline. These are the basic stages.
1. We sketch a shape (Last).
2. Turn a last (mould).
3. Make test shoe to see if the shape and fit of the last is good. The test shoe has no design.
4. Sketch revisions to the last.
5. Make another test shoe and revise if necessary.
6. Sketch a new design onto the finished last shape.
7. If a new heel is required, we have to sample that based on the sketches.
8. Draw up the patterns based on the design sketch.
9. Make a test shoe with the new patterns in black leather.
10. Test for fit, feel, look.
11. Make revisions to the design or patterns if necessary and re-sample.
12. Source leathers, materials, accessories in required colours and finishes.
13. Make sample shoes in various colourways.
14. Choose the best final samples to make a part of the range.
F: What made you decide not to use the mass production method?
C: I don't like the idea of the production line. I don't like the idea that shoes are made by dozens of people who only know how to do a single part of the process, and not one of them can make an entire shoe from start to finish. I wanted our shoes to be made by actual shoe-makers. Guys with decades of experience that can all make a single pair from start to finish if required. It means the quality of the shoes are far superior, and gives us a lot of flexibility.
F: You have recently opened up a shop in Brisbane City on Adelaide St and you already have a store in Fortitude Valley do you have any future plans to move to Sydney or Melbourne?
C: I would love to open in Sydney and Melbourne. We have a lot of internet customers there and I do get asked that all the time. If we get a thousand customers from either city that join our Facebook page or Tweet us to come down, we will!
F: How would you describe your personal style?
C: I have a relaxed semi-formal style. I like to have a small wardrobe of items that I love. High quality pieces. I try to wear mostly Australian designers. If someone asks me about something I'm wearing, I always know where it's from.
F: Why do you think the right pair of shoes is an important part in creating a 'whole' look?
C: Shoes send such a strong message about a person because they are an investment. Most guys don't have more than three pairs of shoes. Whereas they may have 20 shirts or a dozen pants. It's a more considered and selected item and therefore says more about the wearer. For that reason it is extremely important to choose shoes that send the right message and which will compete your whole look.
F: You recently worked with fashion designer Ben Ringuet for his Mercedes Benz Fashion show in Brisbane, have you worked with many other designers?
C: Yes. I always relish the chance to work with clothing designers. I'm lucky because shoes are an accessory. So we are complimentary to their ranges. And most local designers don't do their own shoes. I've done the shoes for shows with Kenzo, Morrissey, Leopold, Trimapee, Subfusco, Bowie, Red Cordial, AG, Diesel, Herringbone, Hugo Boss, Sand, Tommy Hilfiger, and lots more.
F: What are some of Vein Shoes' biggest achievements to date?
C: Our biggest achievement is sustaining the brand to be something that men want to purchase and wear. In my few years at Vein, I've seen a swag of labels start strong and fall by the way. I've seen big established footwear companies fall.
F: What is next for Chris McCallum and Vein shoes?
C: I want make shoes for clothing designers. I want to open a store in Sydney and Melbourne. I want to sell online in China and Taiwan. I want to party with FTV!
Store locations:
Vein Store – Brisbane Arcade
Shop 25 Brisbane Arcade
117 Adelaide Street Front
Brisbane CBD
QLD 4000
Vein Store –TCB
Shop 25b TCB Centre,
20 - 28 Duncan Street
Fortitude Valley
(between Brunswick Street and Chinatown Malls),
Brisbane QLD, 4006
Read More : http://www.ftv123.com/fashionista/the-f-word-blog/2010/10/12/16-vein-wear.html
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